About PRX | The 1978 Tissot Design Story

THE PRX ORIGIN STORY / 1978 — 2021

They call it a copy.
Its own Tissot story began in 1978.

One of the most debated silhouettes in accessible Swiss watchmaking comes with a surprising origin. The PRX is not simply an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak copy: today's watch revives a design that already existed in Tissot's own archives in 1978.

The story begins with a forgotten Seastar connection, passes through the integrated-bracelet design revolution of the 1970s, and returns in the present with the Powermatic 80.

Discover the real history ↓ Explore PRX Collection →
Blue dial Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 watch, illustrating Tissot's revived design
1952
Seastar name registered
1972
Royal Oak introduced
1978
Tissot's archive design
2021
Modern PRX revival

01 / THE ARCHIVE

A watch that had a history before it had a comeback.

In 1978, Tissot introduced a slim, stainless-steel watch with a striking integrated bracelet and a distinctive case geometry. It was part of the historic Seastar family—Tissot's wider category of water-resistant watches at the time. Its form, proportions and steel construction became the historical foundation for what would later be recognised as the PRX.

In 2021, after 43 years, Tissot brought the spirit of that design back as a contemporary collection. The return was an act of rediscovery from the brand's own archive. This is the crucial distinction: the original 1978 Seastar-related design should not be confused with the modern Seastar 1000 diving-watch collection.

02 / THE FORGOTTEN SEASTAR CHAPTER

Before modern PRX, there was Seastar.

Tissot officially registered the Seastar name in 1952 for water-resistant timepieces. During the following decades, Seastar grew into a broad family of watches, not merely the image of a contemporary dive watch. The integrated-bracelet steel design introduced in 1978 belonged to that historical Seastar world.

That is why a PRX can look like a modern luxury sports watch while carrying a story rooted in Tissot's own mid-century experiments with strength, water resistance and the architecture of steel.

Read Tissot's archive account ↗
1952
↓
1978
↓
2021

SEASTAR NAME · ORIGINAL DESIGN · MODERN PRX

03 / THE WATCH, UP CLOSE

Five perspectives. One unmistakable silhouette.

Explore the integrated bracelet, the geometric case and the precise dial architecture through five different examples from the PRX family. The gallery automatically changes images; select a number or use the arrows to browse manually.

Blue Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 integrated-bracelet watch against a textured dark backgroundBlack Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 on the wrist, showing its tonneau case and integrated steel braceletBlue Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 photography with diver watch backgroundBlack dial Tissot PRX in a dark watch enthusiast settingBlue dial Tissot PRX quartz watch worn in hand, example of the wider PRX family
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04 / UNDERSTANDING THE MISCONCEPTION

The Royal Oak comparison: similar era, different identity.

People sometimes mistake the PRX for a copy of Audemars Piguet. The comparison is understandable: both belong to the broader visual conversation around geometric cases and integrated metal bracelets. But design resemblance alone is not evidence that the modern PRX was copied from a Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak was launched in 1972 and designed by Gérald Genta; it is recognised by its octagonal bezel, visible screws and multi-faceted finishing. Tissot's modern PRX instead traces its identity to Tissot's own 1978 Seastar-related model. The PRX has a smooth narrow bezel, tonneau-influenced steel case and a different bracelet architecture. Both belong to the language of 1970s watch design; their documented lineages are distinct. This does not purport to prove there was no historical influence between brands.

Tissot PRX case design on wrist, photographed for comparison with a Royal Oak

Tissot / 1978 archive lineage

PRX

Smooth polished bezel, rounded dial, tonneau-inspired case profile and articulated integrated links.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with octagonal bezel and visible screws, editorial design comparison

Audemars Piguet / 1972 original lineage

Royal Oak

Octagonal bezel with exposed screws, distinct case transitions, integrated bracelet and signature tapisserie styling.

INDEPENDENT DESIGN COMPARISON · AUDEMARS PIGUET

A closer look at the Royal Oak design.

Photos 9 and 10 illustrate the shape and detailing of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak family. These are comparison images, not products offered in our PRX collection.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak chronograph in black dial, example for editorial design comparisonAudemars Piguet Royal Oak three-hand stainless-steel watch, example for editorial design comparison
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Editorial comparison only. Audemars Piguet and Royal Oak are trademarks of their respective owner; this article is not affiliated with or endorsed by Audemars Piguet.

05 / INSIDE THE DESIGN

The architecture behind the silhouette.

01

Case geometry

A tonneau-influenced outer profile frames the round dial, giving the PRX its purposeful 1970s stance.

02

Integrated bracelet

The first links visually continue the line of the case—this continuity is central to the entire design.

03

Surface finishing

Satin-brushed planes intersect with reflective polished edges for controlled, architectural flashes of light.

04

Dial texture

Selected Powermatic 80 variants feature a raised waffle-style pattern, giving the dial three-dimensional depth.

06 / THE ENGINEERING

Mechanical substance behind the steel.

The following data applies to the reference T137.407.11.041.00, the classic 40 mm blue-dial PRX Powermatic 80. Other PRX references—especially quartz versions—have different specifications.

40 mmcase diameter
10.93 mmcase thickness
316Lstainless-steel case
10 bar100 m rating
80 hoursup to power reserve
Nivachron™balance spring
Sapphireanti-reflective crystal
AutomaticSwiss movement

The Powermatic 80 is a self-winding mechanical movement; the Nivachron™ spring helps resist everyday magnetic fields. Nivachron is not a silicon balance spring.

07 / THE 15 DISCOVERIES

15 facts that make you see the PRX differently.

From the 1978 Seastar connection to the fine geometry of the dial and bracelet. The finer details of a design that deserves a closer look.

01 / FACT

1978, not 2021

The shape behind today's PRX first appeared in Tissot's own 1978 catalogue. The modern collection is a revival, not a newly invented silhouette.

02 / FACT

The Seastar archive

That earlier design belonged to the historic Seastar family of water-resistant Tissot watches. It is not the modern Seastar 1000 diver.

03 / FACT

1952: an earlier chapter

Tissot registered the Seastar name in 1952, decades before the particular 1978 design that would underpin today's PRX.

04 / FACT

A 43-year return

The contemporary PRX arrived in 2021—43 years after its 1978 design ancestor.

05 / FACT

More than a Royal Oak comparison

The resemblance reflects a wider 1970s integrated-steel-watch design language; it does not erase Tissot's documented 1978 heritage.

06 / FACT

Not a Gérald Genta attribution

Gérald Genta designed the Royal Oak. There is no established basis for crediting him as the creator of the PRX.

07 / FACT

The letters hide a specification

Tissot has used PR for 'Particularly Robust' or 'Precision and Resistance'; X refers to ten bars of water resistance.

08 / FACT

A continuous steel silhouette

The bracelet flows into the case rather than appearing to be separately attached by conventional lugs.

09 / FACT

Tonneau case geometry

Its barrel-like case profile frames a round dial, making the watch identifiable from a distance.

10 / FACT

Two shapes, one design

The round dial and angular outer architecture create the visual contrast at the heart of the PRX look.

11 / FACT

Brushed versus polished

Broad satin-finished steel surfaces meet restrained polished edges, creating shifting highlights as the wrist moves.

12 / FACT

A deliberately quiet bezel

Unlike the Royal Oak's octagon and exposed screw heads, the PRX relies on a clean, narrow bezel and case lines.

13 / FACT

The bracelet is architecture

Flat articulated links create a precise rhythm and a striking transition from case to wrist.

14 / FACT

The textured automatic dial

Many Powermatic 80 references use a raised waffle-style texture; quartz references can use different dial finishes.

15 / FACT

Clean applied hour markers

Minimalist baton markers leave visual breathing room around the dial and highlight its surface texture.

BV WATCHSTORE / EXPLORE THE WATCHES

Discover the modern PRX collection.

Three dial colours, one recognisable heritage. Explore a selection of PRX Powermatic 80 watches from our catalogue.

THE STORIES CONTINUE

A remarkable design is more interesting when you know where it came from.

Continue with the story of the Swiss clock tower behind Tissot Le Locle, or explore the Watch Journal.